I find inspiration for my skirts from all kinds of places. As many of you know, this often comes from the vintage stylings of Juli Lynne Charlot and Marjorie Montgomery. Or from dresses I never quite got my hands on. Dresses that in their original form would fit my pinkie toe (if we were lucky). But, every so often, I get a crazy, whimsical idea. And I just run with it. Or oink with it, as the case may be…
A few years ago, I stumbled upon a small business called Wicker Darling. Founded by the amazing Jasmine out of Australia, purveyor of all things wicker and extra. These bags called to me in their whimsy and charm. I have quite a few vintage novelty critter bags – and I loved how true Jasmine stayed to the vintage original vibe while making something all her own. Needless to say, it wasn’t long before Chile and Marcus found their way home…
The Inspiration
Jasmine tends to share her latest makes on IG, where we can peep the ideas in progress and place pre-orders as fast as our wicker-loving fingers will allow. Now, while I desperately wish I could own the entire menagerie, closet space (and Visa limits) are at a premium, so I have to have patience and wait for the right design to be too fabulous to resist.
And it didn’t take long. Pigasus was released back in mid 2020, and I was immediately smitten. From his pudgy rotund belly to his curly tail to his wings ready to take him off to the Island of Misfit toys, this charming swine spoke to me. As someone who has a soft spot for those of us who just let their freak flag fly, I knew he and I would get along famously…
From the moment he arrived, it was love. Many an afternoon jaunt was had with this wicker darling on my arm. But make no mistake, Pigasus is a demanding swine. Before long, he started to whine about a skirt to match his fabulousness. One where he would be immortalized in Kona Cotton. At first I was annoyed (I mean, who’s got the time to cater to porcine demands?) “When pigs fly!”, I shot back, getting the irony way too late.
Caught in a trap of my own making, I decided the least I could do was sketch an idea. Before long, I was lost in cloudless climbs and sunny skies. And before you could say, “Charlotte’ s Web,” my next project was born.
The Design
With any new design, you need to get just the right materials. I knew I wanted a blue sky background onto which I could attach my felt appliqués. But it needed to be the right blue – the slightly hazy blue of summer. Not too bright and not too grey – I needed the Goldilocks of blue cotton.
I found the perfect shade in Kona Cotton Breeze – a gentle blue with a hint of grey, which wouldn’t distract from my appliqués but would hold its own.
Then I turned to felt: as usual, I would need a whole heap of it to bring my idea to life. First and foremost: I would need something pretty fabulous to give Pigasus his due. And the only thing for it was glitter.
I went to my tried and true favorite felt shop BBD Supplies – I stocked up 12 x 18 sheets of glitter backed felt in Rose Pink Glitter and Rose Gold Metallic, plus a half yard of felt in yellow and wool blend felt sheets in linen, cinnamon, teddy bear, old gold, periwinkle, and robin’s egg blue for the various details that I had swirling around in my head.
Want to get your porcine on? To recreate this skirt, you will need:
The Construction
All applique projects need a good base. I personally love a full a circle skirt for this. I quickly drafted a circle skirt out of the cotton fabric to to my waist circumference (4.5″ radius = 28″ finished waist) and my ideal hem length (29″ + 4.5″ = 33.5″ outer radius).
Using those measurements, I cut out one half circle and two quarter circles out of the blue felt and stitched them up at the side seams and up the back seam, leaving a 9″ gap for the zipper. If you aren’t as familiar with the geometry behind making a circle skirt, check out this post for a more detailed walk through.
I had an idea for a pocket made from the sun, which I would use as an anchor for the whole design (I got the idea from my Be Mine skirt awhile back). I had a vision of a double layer of felt, so the pocket would be somewhat invisible, with rays cast all around in two shades of yellow felt.
I started by turning to my Cricut, and cutting out 2 x 10″ diameter circles, and a matching circle out of interfacing to help stabilize the pocket and prevent the felt from stretching.
On one of the circles, I drew a concave arc with disappearing ink pen that I then cut out using my rotary cutter. This would be the front flap for my pocket, which I would lay on top of the other yellow circle. I laid it in place on the circle skirt base, so it would rest just at my right hip.
Now, what’s a sun without some rays? Using a mix of Old Gold and Yellow, I cut several 1/4″ strips of felt using my rotary cutter. I placed them symmetrically around the sun, alternating between longer and shorter sunbeams. Once I was happy with their placement, I pinned everything in place.
I like to put my creations on my dress form throughout the process – it’s so important to be sure you like the placement of pieces the way it will actually be worn (and not just in flatlay). I also tested to confirm the pocket was in the right spot for my hand. It didn’t take long before it became clear I needed many more rays. About twice as many to be honest.
But, once they were added, I got the look I was craving. I stitched the sun’s rays securely to the skirt using a straight stitch and matching yellow thread.
Once the rays were stitched, I secured the base of the sun pocket by stitching around the entire perimeter of the base circle. Then, I topstitched the pocket layer around the edge of the semi-circle, leaving the top edge open.
My vision for this skirt was never to have a cloudless sky – so I turned my attention to creating some cumulus wonders. This would be a cinch for my Cricut. I found a few different shapes in Design Space, and cut them out at 2 different sizes (4″ and 5″ width) out of wool blend felt in fresh linen.
Once I had the shapes in hand, I set to work placing them around the skirt. I wanted the pigs to be frolicking in and amongst the clouds, so I created a few clusters here and there for them to gambol in, with spaces where I would create eventual scenes. But, the goal at this stage was to keep a balance around the entire perimeter.
Next up was the fun part: making a bunch of flying pigs! Working from some images. I sketched the shapes myself in Photoshop and imported the .svgs into Design space. I got my Rose Pink Glitter and Rose Gold Metallic felt, and got ready to get to work.
Glitter felt is a lot thicket than regular felt, and I’ve struggled to get it to stick to the FabricGrip mat. To help with this, I’ve found that taping the edges with painter’s tape is a great way to secure it to the mat (and be sure it doesn’t slide around mid cut).
Once the bodies of the pigs were done, I cut some matching wings and snouts out of the linen wool blend felt. Before I knew it, my table was littered with porcine pieces!
Before committing to anything, I started to play with the placement and the position of the pigs themselves. Because I wanted them in various states of flying (or pig-chilling). I’d designed them with arms and legs sort of “modular”, where I could place them as I saw fit. After playing a bit with placement, it was time to get serious and start some swine construction!
To put all of the pieces together, this is where I turned to my favorite fabric glue. Working one pig at a time, I secured arms and legs and heads in place, one at a time. I left them overnight to dry under my favorite brain coasters (which helps to keep pressure on the glue points). Because of the thicker felt, you really want to be sure you give it the time it needs to really cure.
Because no swine is complete without a snout and a curly tail, I also worked to add the special details. Working one pig at a time, I gave them each a bit of flair: a jaunty ear here, a wiggly tail there. I could see each one getting a little bit of its own personality with each new detail.
While the pigs were drying, I went back to my cloudy skies. Because the clouds would be an important backdrop to the design, I decided to stitch them down at this point to avoid having them move around. I used a matching thread and worked mt way around the perimeter, using a tiny, tight backstitch.
I don’t know if I was ever taught this anywhere, but I inherently always want to create balance in my skirts. So, because I had the large pocket on the front right part of the skirt, I knew I wanted another large element on the back left. I had a few ideas bandying around – an airplane flown by Pilot Pig, a Zeplin with a sort of Indiana Jones Swine theme. But, I kept coming back to a perfect flight in a hot air balloon – even a pig needs to give his tired wings a break!
I started with a hot air balloon pattern in Design Space, which I cut out of alternating pieces of periwinkle and robin’s egg blue felt – I loved the way the two shades of blue danced off the pink of the pigs. I put Cricut to work cutting out the elements, and then got to work creating my scene. I laid down the blue strips side by side on my skirt, creating a bouncing balloon that was ready for an adventure.
Then, because every balloon needs a basket, I cut out the elements in cinnamon and teddy bear brown felt. I made basket and the ropes holding her securely to the balloon. I let Pigasus do a quick check at this point – he was really taking a managerial role in this skirt. But, with his approval, it was onwards and upwards.
Because the pieces were quite fiddly, I constructed the basket first using fabric glue to get all of the smaller elements together. Once it was dry, I put it in place beneath my balloon.
Because I am never one to leave well enough alone, I knew I had to create a piglet flying the balloon off to Oz or Milwaukee or wherever Pigs adventure to these days. I cracked myself up making a miniature pig, who’s expression showed he means business…
Once Captain Pig was in place, the time had come to fix all of the elements to the skirt – which I would do using a mix of hand sewing and fabric glue for the smaller elements. Starting with the balloon, I stitched each strip of blue felt in place with a tight backstitch.
Then, working from the background elements forward, I glued some of the smaller aspects of the basket in place. Starting with the ropes, I carefully affixed each one after drawing a thin line of glue to the back.
Next, I added some glue to the back of my miniature pig, which would be hanging out in front of the ropes. Once I layered the basket over him, the illusion of Pigs in Flight would be complete.
Next up: getting all of my pigs in place! I had quite a few of them to dot around: hiding behind clouds, flying off to work, taking a break to nap in a cumulus. It was a really fun scene to create, one vignette at a time.
I‘d place each pig and step back to check the full scene every so often, making minor tweaks here and there. But, once I was happy (and had it on my dress form quickly to confirm), it was time to get to hand sewing!
I worked one pig at a time, using my usual backstitch. Because the glitter felt is thick, this takes bit more force (and a slightly wider needle). But, I was able to work quickly around each pig, securing them to the skirt. Pigasus was pretty pleased with how well he blended into the scene…
A a finishing touch, I scooped up some silver faceted beads from my stash and added them for eyes to each of my pigs – giving just the right amount of sparkle.
And suddenly I was ready for the waistband! I decided to go with a curved waistband, which I’d done for my Be Mine skirt. Using my previously traced pattern, I cut two strips out of the Kona cotton and one out of interfacing. I pressed the interfacing to the back of the front waistband to prevent distortion.
Isewed the waistband to the lining at the top seam and trimmed the seam allowance down. Because it was a curved edge, I created a series of notches along the seam allowance. Then, I pressed the seam allowance to the inside, and sewed along the edge of the seam, before pressing it flat. I pinned the edges together and set it to the side for the time being.
Before I could sew it to the skirt, it was time to tackle The Zipper. As has become my standard, I decided to go with a lapped zipper using a 9″ white zip. It has such a nice finish, and is very true to the vintage style I draw so much inspiration from.
Once the zip was in, I quickly stitched together the skirt lining (out of a Aqua Kona Cotton), which is essentially just creating another circle skirt. I basted it to my skirt at the waistband, right sides together.
I added the waistband to the skirt at a 5/8″ seam allowance. I pressed the lining under on the inside, and pinned it in place. Then, using a slip stitch, I secured it to the waistband.
As my finishing touches, I finished the hem with a blind hem stitch, sewed two waist clasps to the waistband, and then pressed one of my custom clothing labels in place.
And then, there she was, full of whimsey and sass. I saw her as my personal tribute to all of the misfits out there who march to the beat of their own drum. Who do their own thing and find their own way and do so unapologetically.
The Debut
While I wish I could have taken this skirt up for a spin in a hot air balloon, turns out ours was in the shop this weekend. So, we settled for a twirl or two around the garden and a stroll in the park. There’s just something so bright and happy about this design – it’s impossible not to smile when I see those sparkly winged pigs smirking up at me….
Don’t be scared to fly alone.
Find a path that’s all your own.
I have to admit, something magical happens when the calendar flips to April. I can’t explain it, but on March 31, I am bedraggled and worn. The semester has weathered me down to a stump of myself, with a never ending series of lectures and deadlines stretching before me. And then, without preamble, the calendar flips a mere day forward, and the clouds part. Suddenly the light at the end of the tunnel shines brightly, beckoning me towards the dawn of summer and the end of another semester.
I think there are a lot of things in our lives that seem impossible. Insurmountable. And while it would be naive to say that some things are solved by something as simple as flipping a calendar, I am always appreciative of a good perspective shift. To remind me that anything is possible. That blood can come from a stone, that the needle in a haystack could be recovered, that hell might freeze over. And that I might emerge from this semester unscathed.
I mean, if pigs can have wings, is anything really all that far behind?
xoxo
Construction Details:
Circle Skirt: Self-drafted
Skirt fabric : 4 yards of Breeze Kona Cotton for the base + Aqua for the lining
Appliqué: Felt from BBD Supplies
Fabric Glue: Aleene’s
Additional notions (zipper, thread): JoAnn’s
Outfit Details:
Top: ASOS (similar)
Skirt: Made by me!
Handbag: Wicker Darling, sold out
Shoes: Butrich
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